At home or in quiet places, your dog may look great.
Then another dog, a car or a real distraction appears and the training falls apart.
These dogs did not need to look perfect in a training field.
They needed results their owners could use in everyday life.
Jinx had spent much of her life in kennels.
She had already been through two homes and had a bite history.
She can now enjoy calm walks, clear rules and safe off-lead freedom.
Siva’s owner had already tried several trainers.
His reactions had reached the point where she could barely walk him.
He can now walk past dogs calmly and enjoy reliable off-lead freedom.
Daisy was a highly reactive Doberman who exploded whenever another dog appeared.
She can now walk past dogs calmly and enjoy more freedom with her owner.
Most owners who work with me have already watched videos, joined classes, paid trainers and tried different methods.
The problem is not a lack of effort.
It is knowing what your dog needs, what to work on first and what to change when the training stops working.
Are you too close?
Was your timing late?
Should you reward, step in or move away?
Is your dog ready to progress?
That is where coaching makes the difference.
I watch what is happening, show you what needs to change and give you a clear plan for what to do next.
“You don’t need more things to try. You need to know what your dog needs, what to work on next and how to make the training work on real walks.”
We start by looking at your dog’s history, daily life, triggers, motivation and past training.
Then we decide where your dog needs to begin and what you should work on first.
Over eight weeks, you follow five clear stages in the right order.
I help you apply each stage to your dog and the walks you face every day.
We look at your dog’s history, daily routine, triggers, motivation and past training.
You will know where to begin, what to focus on first and what to stop wasting time on.
Build food motivation, play and engagement that work outside, not only in the house.
This gives your dog a real reason to turn away from distractions and work with you.
Give your dog a clear and consistent way to understand you.
They will learn what earns a reward, how to respond when you ask for something and which behaviours are off the table.
Teach your dog to walk calmly by your side, wait when asked and begin building a recall you can trust in the real world.
Together, these skills will help you give your dog safe ways to burn off their energy, making everyday life easier for both of you.
Take everything your dog has learned so far and make it work around the things that normally set them off.
We will gradually practise around dogs, wildlife, traffic or whatever your dog reacts to, so they can stay calm and listen when it matters most.
Strengthen your dog’s recall and calm behaviour around real distractions, so you can trust them in more situations.
As that trust grows, you can enjoy off-lead walks, visit more places and include your dog in more of your life.
Hands-on guidance to get your timing and technique right, with sessions tailored to your dog in real-world locations across the Fylde Coast.
Video lessons to help keep you on track between Sessions - this aids your learning and speeds up results
Q&A Style Weekly Coaching Calls to Discuss Wins, Struggles And what we need to focus on going forward
Film your training away from sessions for me to break down and provide feedback ensuring results stick
Don't wait an entire week if something crops up, get hold of me straight away
Lesley & Nelly
From severe dog reactivity and car chasing to enjoying life without the reactions.
Tanya, Mark & Dixie
From reacting to everything to enjoying off-lead freedom.
Trisha & Luna
One of the most vocal reactive dogs I’ve worked with.
Sound warning for the beginning of this video!
Keith & Dexter
Watch Keith recall Dexter mid-chase from a deer - the kind of reliability we work towards in this programme.
Thousands spent on trainers and behaviourists with no results to off-lead freedom, pub visits and walking past dogs calmly.
From exploding at every dog to walking past 50 dogs in one walk!
From avoiding the world to walking past dogs calmly and even relaxing at cafes.
From severe dog and car reactivity to camping trips and off-lead freedom
Complete your assessment. Follow your plan. Practise consistently. Attend the coaching calls or watch the replays. Send your footage, ask for help and apply my feedback.
If you do all of that and see no meaningful progress within your first 30 days, I will refund your payment.
Where Do the In-Person Sessions Take Place?
Sessions take place across the Fylde Coast and surrounding areas in locations chosen for your dog's needs and current stage of training.
We may begin somewhere quieter before progressing into parks, streets and other real-world environments.
What If My Dog Won’t Take Food or Play Outside?
That is extremely common with reactive and highly aroused dogs.
We look at how food or play has been introduced, whether the environment is too difficult, which movement or reward the dog prefers and what other outlets may hold value.
Building engagement is the first stage because many dogs cannot initially use food or play around real distractions.
How Much Time Will I Need to Commit?
As a general target, you should be prepared to train for approximately 20 minutes twice per day.
However, this does not mean every session must become an additional major task.
Where possible, we look at how to include the work within normal walks, play sessions and everyday routines.
Consistency matters more than occasionally completing one enormous session.
What Happens After the Eight Weeks?
You keep access to the training resources and leave with a clear progression plan showing you what to maintain, what still needs proofing and how to continue building reliability and freedom.
Will I Need To Buy Equipment?
Most likely, yes. You may need to buy some equipment as part of the programme.
However, do not rush out and buy anything before you join. Once I have assessed your dog and understood your situation, I will tell you exactly what is worth getting, what to avoid and how to use it properly.
The right equipment depends on the dog, the behaviour we are working on and what you need to achieve. Any recommendations will be specific to you, rather than a generic shopping list.
What happens during the free call?
The free call is simply a chance for us to talk about your dog, what you are currently struggling with and what you would like life together to look like.
We will work out whether the programme is right for you and whether online coaching or in-person training would be the better fit.
There is no hard sell. I only want to work with people who genuinely want to work with me, and I am not going to try to convince you to join if the programme is not right for you.
Tell me what’s happening with your dog, what you’ve already tried and what you want everyday life to look like instead. We’ll work out whether the programme is right for you.
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